Growing Tomatoes
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Growing Tomatoes in the Home Garden
HYG-1624-92
Marianne Riofrio
One of the most popular of all home garden vegetables is the tomato. Originating
in Central and South America, the tomato was thought by early American colonists
to be poisonous and was not recognized as a useful vegetable until the 1800s.
Eaten raw or in innumerable cooked dishes, today the tomato is an almost daily
part of the American family diet. When grown as staked plants, tomatoes require
a relatively small amount of space, yet are capable of producing 8 to 10 pounds
or more of fruit per plant. Tomatoes are low in calories and a good source of
vitamin C.
Climatic Requirements
Tomatoes are warm-season plants and should be planted only after danger of frost
has passed. Temperature is an important factor in the production of tomatoes,
which are particularly sensitive to low night temperatures. Blossom drop can
occur in early spring when daytime temperatures are warm, but night temperatures
fall below 55 degrees F as well as in summer, when days are above 90 degrees F
and nights above 76 degrees F.
Soil Requirements
Tomatoes can be grown on many different soil types, but a deep, loamy soil,
well-drained and supplied with organic matter and nutrients is most suitable. As
with most garden vegetables, tomatoes grow best in a slightly acid soil with a
pH of 6.2 to 6.8.
Fertilizer
Tomatoes respond well to fertilizer applications, especially phosphorus. Excess
nitrogen fertilizer can result in plants with extremely vigorous vine growth but
little fruit production. Apply 2-1/2 to 3 pounds of a complete fertilizer, such
as 5-10-10, 5-20-20, or 8-16-16 per 100 square feet of garden area. Work the
fertilizer into the soil about 2 weeks before planting. An additional
sidedressing of a nitrogen fertilizer may be desirable after the first cluster
of flowers have set fruit.
Recommended Cultivars
There are probably more tomato cultivars available to the home gardener than any
other garden vegetable. A few will be named here, but it's worthwhile talking to
other local gardeners to find out what other cultivars do well in your area; or
just experiment by trying one or two new cultivars each year. When choosing
cultivars, keep in mind the different ripening periods.
Tomatoes are usually categorized as early, mid-season or late. Another
consideration is whether the tomato cultivar you choose is determinate or
indeterminate in growth habit. Determinate (D) tomato plants grow to a certain
height and then stop. They also flower and set all their fruit within a
relatively short period of time. This is an advantage if the tomatoes are being
grown primarily for canning purposes. Indeterminate tomato plants grow, flower,
and set fruit over the entire growing season.
Another characteristic to look for when choosing tomato cultivars is disease
resistance. Many cultivar names are followed by one or more letters indicating
resistance to Verticillium wilt (V), Fusarium wilt (F), or nematodes (N).
Disease resistance can be an important consideration, especially if you have
experienced these problems with tomatoes in the past.
Early: Moreton Hybrid (V), Jet Star (VF), Pik-Red (VF)(D), and Pilgrim (VF)(D).
Mid-season: Heinz 1350 (VF)(D), Better Boy (VFN), Burpee(VF), Roma (VF)(D)(paste
type), Floramerica (VF), Celebrity (VFN)(D), Red Star (VFN), Market Pride (VF)(D),
and Mountain Delight (VF).
Late: Supersonic B (VF), Ramapo (VF), Supersteak (VFN)(D), Mountain Pride (VF),
Beefmaster (VFN).
Yellow and Orange: Jubilee, Sunray (F), Lemon Boy (VFN).
Large vine with small fruit (not suited to cage or container culture): Small Red
Cherry, Large Red Cherry, Red Pear, Yellow Pear, Small Fry, and Sweet 100.
Dwarf vine with medium fruit: Patio, Pixie. Dwarf vine with small fruit: Tiny
Tim, Presto, Baxter's Bush Cherry.
Establishing the Plants
Due to their long growing season and temperature requirements, tomatoes are set
out as transplants in Ohio gardens. In central Ohio, the last spring frost date
is about May 20, and tomatoes may be planted anytime after this.
When purchasing tomato transplants, choose those with straight, sturdy stems
about the thickness of a pencil. They should have 4 to 6 young true leaves, no
blossoms or fruit, and be free of insect pests and diseases. Plants in
individual containers or cell packs experience little or no transplant shock and
become established quickly.
Tomato plants will develop roots along the stem and may be set deeply at
transplanting with the first set of leaves near the soil surface. If transplants
are in peat pots, remove the rim of the pot or be sure the rim is below the soil
surface, so that the soil ball will not dry out. A soluble starter fertilizer,
high in phosphorus can be applied at planting time. Use according to label
directions.
Tomatoes grown unstaked are usually planted 3 feet apart in rows 5 feet apart.
Plants to be staked are planted 2 feet apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. Plants
to be caged are planted 30 to 36 inches apart. Stakes and cages should be placed
at planting time or soon after so as to not disturb the roots. Unstaked plants
should be mulched with clean straw, black plastic or some other suitable
material to keep the fruit off the ground and prevent rotting.
Where space is limited or soil conditions poor, tomato plants can be grown in
containers using a disease-free planting mix. Most any container is suitable as
long as drainage is provided. Pay special attention to water and fertilizer
needs of container-grown tomato plants.
Cultural Practices
Once the tomato plants are established, apply a mulch to conserve moisture and
suppress weed growth. If weeds do appear, they may be pulled by hand or removed
by shallow cultivation. An even moisture supply is important, especially once
the tomato fruits begin to develop. If the soil becomes too dry, blossom-end rot
can be a problem. If too much water is applied at one time, ripening fruit may
split.
Staked plants are usually pruned to a single or double stem and periodically
tied loosely to the stake with soft twine. Pruning is accomplished by removing
all the branches or "suckers" that grow from the leaf axils, leaving only the
main stem or the main stem and one additional branch near the base. Unsupported
and caged tomatoes may be left to branch normally. Staked and pruned tomatoes
produce fewer but larger fruit than caged or unsupported plants.
There are numerous insect and disease problems of tomatoes that space prohibits
describing in detail here. If problems arise, contact your local Cooperative
Extension office for identification and control recommendations.
The author gratefully acknowledges the work of James D. Utzinger, on whose fact
sheet this is based.
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